Monday, 30 January 2012

Dunedin to Queenstown

We woke up after a comfy nights sleep at the Barnsley's, said our goodbyes to Mike and Emily as they were off early, but sat the whole morning talking to Christine. A few cups of tea later we headed in to Dunedin to buy some bits for the recently received GoPro. A quick lunch then we began our journey to the Catlins. With little of the day left we we only stopped once after detours along gravel roads at Nugget Point. A short walk along the point gave great views of a small lighthouse, seals and spoonbills. The reason for its name is the jagged nuggets of rock that jut out from the sea beyond the point. We could tell that we were in for a change in weather as there was a divide along the point with one side calm and sunny and the other grey, with swirling winds and rough seas. On our way down from the point we bumped in to Paul and Sarah, the Aussie and Swedish girl we trekked up a mountain with the day before. We continued on finally reaching the Catlins, driving through scenic reserve after scenic reserve. The Catlins is an amazing place dominated by large hills and native bush or podocarp forests. After miles of forest and twisting roads we were met by a tropical freeze frame where the forest meets the sea. At the top of a hill we had a clear view of the native bush being halted by golden sands, the white waves and blue sea.




We arrived at our nice little hostel and the owner recommended that we go and see the local yellow eyed penguin colony. We were their to witness the penguins come in, slowly making their way over the fossilised forest to their young. It was incredible to see this process and it was like being in an episode of Frozen Planet!

After a good nights sleep we left for a days exploration of the Catlins. Our first stop was the Cathedral Caves, the walk down to the beach through the native bush was a great opportunity to test out the GoPro. In all the excitement, of the GoPro and the the vast caves I (Charlie) realised that I had forgotten my SLR battery and that it was still on charge back at the Hostel. We decided to head back to the Hostel via the Niagara Falls cafe for some lunch and wifi to make contact with the outside world. Their is virtually no signal at all down this far!



The sunny skies quickly turned grey and, inevitably it began to rain. As we quickly found out, when it rains in the south of the south island, it sure does rain! We spent the afternoon in the car watching Hectors Dolphins in Curio Bay and chilling in the Hostel where Laura almost finished a puzzle, if it wasn't for a missing piece and we recharged our batteries after a busy, non-stop start to our trip.

We woke up to silence, the rain had finally stopped, so we packed the car and got on our way, in the wrong direction. After missing out on the famous Purakaunui Falls the day before we had to go back to see them before heading to our next destination, New Zealands second largest lake, Te Anau. The trip was definitely worth it, the falls were flowing fast with all the rain and it was another great photo opportunity. After a long, rainy drive to Te Anau, stopping only once to see Clifden Suspension Bridge (woo Bristol!), we had time to book our Milford Sound cruise and do some food shopping before an early night.






With the Lonely Planet guide recommending to leave by 8am to dodge the tour buses, we were up and on our way to Milford Sound in high spirits. As we drove closer to the fiord (New Zealand spelling of fjord), the skies grew greyer and for the third day running it rained. The drive was still spectacular, passing through glacial valleys, in awe of the landscape the last ice age had created. By leaving early and dodging the tour buses, we arrived with two and a half hours to spare! A snooze in the car and a cup of tea/hot chocolate passed the time, but the rain didn't want to pass at all. The rain and fog created an eerie atmosphere as we started our cruise down the Jurassic Park-like fiord. With literally thousands of waterfalls cascading down the monstrous cliffs, of which two are rated within the highest in the world, we forgot about the Devon-like weather and stood outside for the duration of the cruise until the boat captain drove so close to a waterfall that it thundered onto the deck. Being young, crazy travelers we decided it would be a great idea to get as close as we could....and got drenched!  We returned back to the car looking like drowned rats and headed back to Te Anau, not before stopping at the Chasm, an amazing waterfall that had blasted its way through the rock making a hole in the cliff face (no picture could do this justice). At the car park and at the Homer Tunnel we were glad to see the mountains local cheeky chappies the kea, a large mountain parrot known for stealing food and pulling anything and everything off of peoples cars. 



Sunday was the day we moved on to the adventure capital of the Southern Hemisphere, Queenstown. Of course, the first thing we did was head for Fergburger. Purely by chance Matt Laurenson and Sophie Lawrence from UWE were arriving on the same day. After spying them arriving on the Kiwi Experience, we caught up on the lakeside with some beers and later headed into town for our first night out of the trip, drinking cocktails out of teapots. 




We woke up to blue sky and sunshine, a perfect day for shotover jet boating and luging with Matt and Sophie. Jetboating was incredible with Laura getting the best of it being behind the driver, passing within inches of overhanging rocks in the canyon, and Matt getting soaked on the other side. Luging was an epic GoPro moment, making use of the helmet attachment. We were joined by Le France (French David from the Kiwi experience) and it was race on for the boys and a leisurely potter down for the girls. After taking in the amazing views over Queenstown, we headed back to the hostel for a quiet nights sleep. But, being Queenstown, this was not the case with our hostel being more like a nightclub! 





We have spent today chilling and writing this. We have learnt a lesson, if we want to keep this up...(and keep Robert off our backs...haha joking Dad)...do it more regularly!!! 

Tuesday, 24 January 2012

Lake Tekapo to Dunedin

After one last visit down to the waters edge of Lake Tekapo, we headed off towards our next destination, the home of the worlds smallest penguin, Oamaru. The drive took us past Lake Pukaki, another pastel blue lake set in front of snow capped mountains, and we couldn't resist the temptation of a "feed our salmon for FREE" sign.



We then continued our drive towards the coast along the Waitaki Gorge which began at the Benmore Dam, New Zealand's second largest hydro electric dam. Deciding to take the long, more scenic route to Oamaru, we were greeted by rapidly changing scenery, through eerie valleys and "Elephant Rocks" just one example of the mysterious landscapes created millions of years ago.

We then passed through Oamaru, an old fish export port, famous for its victorian quarter on to our nights accomodation, Waitaki Waters Lodge. After a nice walk along the beach towards the estuary and a really healthy meal (packet noodles) it was time to find the rare blue penguins. They certainly knew how to hold an audience, arriving 45 minutes late, but proving very much worth the wait...ohhh little rhyme. They climbed out of the water, up the rocks, posed for a few photos then waddled across the road to their nests. One of the most entertaining things we have both seen. Seriously, picture mini penguins strutting along a road.



On our way home, we made friends with a little owl (thats the name of the species apparently) who also decided it was a night for posing. After our cold nights sleep in the cabin and a cheeky skype/facetime with the parents it was time to move on again. A short hop down the east coast to stay with Mike Barnsley and his family. The drive served up more geological delights, with the highlight being the Moeraki Boulders, giant spherical boulders that looked as though they had been plonked on the beach. A trek up (emphasis on the word up) Trotters Gorge with the company of an Aussie and his Swedish girlfriend gave amazing views over the gorge and on to the coast, with a close fly by of two amazing New Zealand Falcon.


We finally arrived in Dunedin and then found the Barnsley's house and were welcomed by a home cooked food and some well needed vegetables, animals and good company. This has taken us forever so ENJOY! Please dont expect this much next time! xxx

Saturday, 21 January 2012

Christchurch and Lake Tekapo

After spending two nights in Christchurch, including a scenic drive to Akaroa, a beautiful french inspired town dwarfed by the volcanic landscape, and back, we have finally got in to the groove of things. We were both amazed by the amount of damage left behind by the 2011 earthquakes in Christchurch. The city centre is still in ruins and completely closed off, in parts it seemed like a ghost town.



We left Christchurch for Lake Tekapo on the 21st Jan and what a drive it was! We drove away from the flat plains of East Canterbury along the scenic tourist route over the mysteriously blue Rakaia Gorge and in to the mountains. Our highlight of the day was taking a spontaneous detour to the Sharplin Falls. Within a twenty minute walk the landscape changed in to a lush tropical forest and after a long trek up the mountain we finally reached the Falls. A prime photo opportunity!



Laura's Panorama

We continued on along Burkes Pass until we reached Lake Tekapo. One of New Zealand's many blue lakes, a colour due to the rock flour created by its glacial past. We had little sun light left once we arrived so showered and ate, however the views didnt stop there. We were asked by two Chinese couples (who were very entertaining!) along with a German couple to go star gazing. The area is hopeful of being a UNESCO reserve in the sky due to night sky. We have both never seen stars like it, so many and so bright, a full view of the Milky Way stretching across the sky.




That brings us to today, the weather hasnt been as good, with passing clouds and a chill in the wind. We drove to to Mt. John observatory for amazing views over Lake Tekapo and Lake Alexandrina and a yummy white hot chocolate in the Astro Cafe. Our timing is running out...thats all for now, and we will try to keep this going as best we can! xxxxx

Friday, 20 January 2012

The Beginning

Hey everyone. We've arrived safe and sound in Christchurch! Slowly getting over the jetlag and getting into the flow of things. Drove to Akaroa today..amazing scenery and a characterful french-inspired town. We will work out how to put up photos soon and try to keep everyone updated as much as we can on here. Will post soon xx