After a long slow journey of trying to sleep on the surprisingly comfortable fold-out night train beds we finally arrived on sunny Koh Tao and dragged our bags to the 7-11 where we met one of the guys from Roctopus, the dive school where we were booked in to do our open water diving course. We hopped on a taxi which took us to our accommodation (out here taxis are pick-up trucks with benches on the back for passengers, much more exciting than taxis at home!). We quickly checked into the dive school next door and were told to be back for a short introduction at 5pm. On arriving in our room we were asleep before our heads hit the pillow, due to the lack of sleep the night before, and pretty much slept for the whole afternoon! We then headed back to Roctopus where we met our instructor Jay, who had been recommended by Matt and Sophie who did their course a few weeks before, fellow students Meg and Anders, and Jessie who had completed the academics online but would join us for the confined and open water dives later on. We had a short introduction on what the next three days would entail and watched two videos covering the first two sections of the course. After pad thai at "Mint Kitchen", the delicious restaurant next door to the dive school where we ended up eating the majority of our meals, we headed back to our room where we completed our "homework". We drifted into a deep sleep, excited about finally learning to dive, something both of us have wanted to do for a VERY long time!
We awoke to the loud noise of what we thought was the air-con and quickly got dressed, ready for breakfast with Jay, Andes and Meg. As we rushed out the door, we were greeted by a very familiar site…rain. Luckily, in Thailand it doesn't usually rain for very long so we were positive that it would subside by the time we were ready to get in the water that afternoon. Our morning was filled with a breakfast of bacon, toast and eggs, a review of our homework and an introduction to the scuba-diving kit. By lunch time, the rain still hadn't subsided so Jay decided we would crack on with the academics and get the exam out the way so that we could have a long, water-filled day tomorrow, hopefully in the sun! Three Dvds, three section reviews and one exam later, we had completed all the academics and understood the theory of diving. We had the rest of the afternoon to relax so went for a stroll along the beach (the rain finally stopped), a dip in the sea which was more like a bath and watched the beautiful orange glow of the sunset whilst sipping a cocktail/beer at our favourite beachfront bar, Sairee Cottage.
The next morning, we made our way to the dive shop just before the heavens opened and everyone huddled together in the shop watching a film on sharks, waiting for it to pass. When it finally did we headed down to a brand new hotel where we were to learn the basic skills in their dive pools. After a brief explanation from Jay of what we had to learn before heading out into open water we kitted up for the first time and hopped into the pool. In no more than 1.5m we spent half an hour underwater copying Jays demonstrations of the skills and when we surfaced again we had all mastered taking out our regulators, taking off our masks underwater, de-fogging our masks underwater and sharing air when our buddy had run out of air, which hopefully will never happen! It was then time to jump into the deep pool where we repeated these skills, as well as learning how to equalise our ears and sinuses when descending under the water and how to swim to the surface with a buddy when one has run out of air. Back to Mint Kitchen to grab a quick lunch to eat onboard the boat and we were heading for Mae Haad where our boat was waiting to take us for our first two open water dives!
We scrambled across a few other dive boats on the busy pier to get to our boat before we set off out to sea. On arriving at Twins dive site and after a thorough briefing from Jay, emphasising all the key skills we had learnt that morning, it was time to set up our gear and do our final buddy checks. All checked and set we giant-strided off the boat into the sea, not forgetting to inflate our bc and tap our heads to show we were OK. We swam along the surface to the buoy line ready to begin our descent in to the magical underwater world that awaited us. We slowly sank down, letting out air from our bc holding on to the buoy line all they way down, continuously equalising to release the pressure in our ears. Once we reached our target depth of 12 metres we left the buoy line and began our underwater adventure/obsession. We followed Jay as he guided us round the Twin rocks admiring the beautiful reef fish as well as some hunting trevally. We were completely taken by the deep blue with sprawling neon corals and the endless list of new and exciting creatures to admire and search for. We were lucky enough to spot blue spotted stingrays, angel fish, banner fish, butterfly fish, three protected clownfish and the territorial head-butting titan trigger fish before it was time for our "big skills session" which included having to take our masks completely off underwater, which we were both dreading! After 40 minutes our time under the sea was up and we headed up to the surface after our 3 minute safety stop at 5 metres. After a decent surface interval it was time to jump back in and we both could not wait! This time it was the nearby dive site called White Rock and the dive was a chance for us to cruise around getting used to neutral buoyancy, practising swimming only with our legs and just getting our movement underwater more fluid. With a maximum depth of 11.8m, we saw many of the fish spotted on our previous dive as well as reef cod, yellow-tailed fusilier, a large school of swirling yellow-tailed barracuda and a large puppy dog-eyed porcupine pufferfish. Exhausted from our exciting first day of diving, with a total time of 2 hours and 15 minutes spent underwater, we headed back for an energy-replacing yet civilised dinner before a well deserved nights kip.
We awoke ready for our 7.45 am meet, excited by another days diving especially as Chumpon Pinnacle (our first dive site) is known for the possibility of being graced by a visit from the illusive whale shark! The aim of this first dive was to reach a depth of 18m in order to complete our open water dive course. Accompanying us on our two dives of the day was Chris, a professional underwater videographer, who was there to capture our day and everything that we saw. We were immediately met by a couple of scribbled filefish as we descended down to our target depth, hovering above the pinnacle base another 16m below us. Jay guided us on a route around the pinnacle, pointing out creatures using his exaggerated hand signals. We saw batfish, a juvenile undulated moray eel, a white-eyed moray eel, rainbow runners, a couple of giant groupers and more schools of yellow-tailed barracuda. We then began our ascent passing over the field of anemones swaying in the slight current, dotted by pink clownfish, and finally reached the surface. On returning to the boat, Jay said that he was disappointed by the amount of fish as it is usually a much more impressive dive. We then moved on for our final dive of the open water course at White Rock where we were graced with 20m visibility. Instead of the usual giant stride entry, as a bit of a show for the upcoming movie, we performed a forward roll entry into the water. We were able to dive to a deeper depth (14.1m) than the previous day at the same site and due to the size of the site we explored new territories. We saw a number of blue-spotted stingrays hiding under the cracks and crevasses created by the white rock as well as some more giant grouper, a number of hunting trivially, a moray eel, angel fish and a very large titan triggerfish. The completion of this dive meant that we were officially certified open water divers and we were also informed that we both received 100% in the extraodinarily "difficult"...not, exam. Time for a nap before our celebration drinks and movie-showing at a local bar which had a huge air-conditioned cinema screen with giant sofas! Chris certainly made a great movie filled with fantastic memories, and we all thoroughly enjoyed it. However, it was not time to say goodbye yet as we, along with Meg and Andes, had decided to undertake the advanced open water course which would give us much more flexibility and confidence for diving in the future.
We used our day off to have a nice long lie-in and met Meg and Andes at the Mint Kitchen for lunch as we were planning to go snorkelling with reef sharks at Shark Bay. However, we were advised not to go as the rain that morning would have affected the visibility in the shallow waters and it would not be worth the journey. Instead, we headed down to the beach where we spent the afternoon sitting in the shallow water surrounded by moored long-tail boats enjoying the sun. That evening we enjoyed a scrumptious takeaway pizza and a movie back at our bungalow, in preparation for another couple of fun-filled days of diving.
Our first dive at Hin Wong Pinnacle was the "deep dive" and the main aim was to reach a maximum depth of 30m, a compulsory requirement in order to become an advanced diver. Down at 30m you breathe a lot more air, especially Charlie, so we reached our maximum depth before moving back up the pinnacle. With lower light levels and sediment in the water there was not much to see at 30 m apart from a couple of razor fish. As we moved closer to the pinnacle, we began seeing more fish including large porcupine pufferfish, the familiar yellow-tailed barracuda and more of the peculiar scribbled filefish. Our next dive was a fun dive, a little treat to ourselves as we couldn't bare the thought of sitting on the boat whilst others were underwater. Here we had a bit of freedom exploring the coral gardens of the lighthouse dive site where we saw sweetlips, nudibranchs, hunting trivially, baitfish and the evil-looking needle crocodile fish swimming at the surface above us.
After a quick lunch back at the Mint Kitchen, it was back on the boat for our next two disciplines. Our first dive of the afternoon was the mandatory navigation in which we learnt how to navigate around dive sites using both reciprocal headings with a compass and natural navigation by observing our surroundings. This was made easier by the incredible visibility we were fortunate to have. We were lucky enough to see a huge green turtle with a shell length of over a metre, as well as a giant barracuda, a strange ruffled flatworm, a close encounter with a titan triggerfish and three squid as we surfaced. During our surface interval whilst mooring at Twins, Charlie spotted a turtle on the surface so we all jumped in with our masks to see if we could spot him. Laura spotted him chilling out at the bottom as he slowly swam around. Two turtles in one day…what a treat! The final dive of the day was a bit of fun, the perfect buoyancy course, consisting of hoops, tunnels, swimming sideways/backwards/upside-down and generally completing an underwater assault course and practising new manoeuvrability techniques. As this was away from the reef we saw very few fish, but we did catch sight of clownfish and angelfish. That evening we both felt like completely different meals so Charlie has a yummy burger whilst watching the other Roctopus open water course video (which was nowhere near as entertaining as ours) before going to get Laura a yellow prawn curry at Nong.
Our final day of diving on Koh Tao was perfect for the both of us as it was combined Photography (for Charlie) and underwater naturalist (for Laura the biologist). The first dive was at Chumpon Pinnacle where we able to dive down to a maximum depth of 26m in search of the larger pelagic fish where we saw a GIGANTIC giant grouper, a large dark snapper, schooling chevron barracuda, a chilled out camouflaged bearded scorpion fish, a couple of moray eels, a school of one-spot snappers and a pair of scribbled filefish to complete the dive. Our return to Chumpon was much more impressive and exciting. Our final dive in Koh Tao was another new site called Green Rock (very original with their names hey?!). A site known for its swim throughs, it was time to put our buoyancy course to practise. The first part of the dive was dominated by schooling yellow and chevron barracuda that almost surrounded us in a sliver blanket. We saw six-banded angel fish which was last spotted in Australia, some durban dancing shrimp hiding in a crack, sweetlips who were not in a mood for a photo, a sad looking pufferfish, clownfish, nudibranchs, hundreds of christmas tree worms and a yellow boxfish right at the end of the dive. The afternoon was spent looking through the groups photos from the day (which we were extremely pleased with and as a result, craving an underwater camera with housing) before heading back to Sairee Cottage for a few sundowners and our final meal on the friendly Koh Tao.
Early the next morning we were picked up by our taxi and began the long, boring journey on a VIP coach back up to Bangkok. We weren't too sad as we knew this would not be our last visit and we were also extremely excited about luxury-living in the City of Angels.